The Evolution of Assidat Zgougou: A Traditional Tunisian Dessert
From Humble Origins to Luxury Item
Assidat zgougou is today one of the most anticipated desserts during the Mouled celebrations in Tunisia, but its history dates back to a period of great hardship. In the late 19th century, the country was experiencing a deep geopolitical and financial crisis. The growing debt of the Regency, the heavy taxation imposed by the bey, and the repression that followed the 1864 insurrection had plunged the population into poverty, causing famines and epidemics. Faced with cereal shortages, Tunisians turned to the abundant seeds of the Aleppo pine, found in local forests. Transforming these seeds into a nutritious and sweet cream, they created assidat zgougou, an alternative food source born out of necessity and gradually integrated into the traditions of Mouled.
A Symbol of Sharing and Conviviality
For decades, this dessert has symbolized sharing and conviviality. Each family would prepare assida to offer to their neighbors and loved ones, as a gesture of solidarity. However, this dish, conceived in poverty, has undergone a spectacular evolution. The harvest of zgougou remains rare and expensive, and its preparation is long and demanding. Additionally, a recent trend amplified by social media has emerged: pastry chefs and influencers showcase sophisticated presentations, with multi-layered assidats combining zgougou, pistachios, and hazelnuts, topped with dried fruits. These decorations, which have become a visual standard on Instagram and TikTok, significantly increase the preparation cost.
A Luxury Item in Modern Times
Today, zgougou is almost akin to a luxury product. According to several sources, a kilogram of seeds can cost between 50 and 60 dinars, and the total cost of a family preparation exceeds 190 dinars when adding dried fruits like almonds, pistachios, or pine nuts. For a large family, maintaining this tradition has become a significant financial sacrifice.
A Reflection of Tunisia's Economic Reality
This phenomenon is set against a backdrop where the purchasing power of Tunisians continues to erode. Despite a slight slowdown in inflation, food prices continue to rise, making it difficult for many households to keep up with the pace of celebrations. What was once a popular invention born out of extreme poverty has now become a social marker. Some households reduce the quantities prepared, while others opt for a simplified version, but the "premium" assida seen on social media remains the preserve of the affluent classes.
A Double Story of Resilience and Social Change
The story of zgougou tells a double tale: one of a people's resilience in transforming poverty into tradition, and another of a society where economic and social evolutions transform a collective practice into a luxury product. Between the memory of a time of crisis and the reflection of a declining purchasing power, assidat zgougou embodies the contradictions of a Tunisia seeking to balance its attachment to traditions with economic realities.
